backpacking

My Favorite Spots In Latin America

July 6, 2017 by Asia

I spent nearly 1 year backpacking through 10 insanely beautiful countries: Ecuador, Colombia, Panama, Costa Rica, Nicaragua, El Salvador, Honduras, Guatemala, Belize, and Mexico. Phew! In all honesty, I feel like I could still be living that simple, adventurous life…taking long bus rides, eating street food, sleeping in bunk beds, and meeting crazy interesting people from all over the globe…but it has run its course (for now).

From the beaches in Colombia to the volcanoes in Guatemala, here are some of my favorite spots in Latin America. Let me know if you agree or disagree, and enjoy!

Best beach: Cabo San Juan (Tayrona Park), Colombia // Runner up: Puerto Viejo, Costa Rica
I visited countless beaches, so it’s hard to pick just one. The most memorable was inside of Tayrona Park, Colombia. You can only enter and exit this beach on foot (or by horse), and camping is encouraged. It’s small, serene, and surrounded by coconut-bearing palm trees. Local vendors hike in to sell empanadas and helados (ice cream) each day, and there’s a restaurant nearby if you want prepared food or cerveza. Bonus: you’ll experience the most amazing sunrise ever. Waking up before dawn just feels natural here.

The 10k stretch of jungle beaches in Puerto Viejo is perfection. There are hikes to viewpoints, expats meeting up for volleyball matches, surf lessons, yoga sessions, and fresh coconuts. If you’re lucky, you might catch a sloth sighting or two. It’s less touristy on this side of Costa Rica (the Caribbean), so as an added bonus, you won’t see any high rises. A “nice” Airbnb might even feel a bit rural, depending on what sort of accommodations you’re accustomed to.

Best water: Isla Holbox, Mexico
The ocean is incredibly calm for wading and swimming (but terrible for surfing), and there is a sandbank you can walk on for miles. The water never seems to get too deep, and the temperature is perrrrfect. What else can I say? I’ll let this photograph speak for itself. (Ps. There are pink flamingos here too!)

Best value: Nicaragua
This country will always hold a special place in my heart. It was my second visit, and this time I got to know it on a budget. I swam in crater lakes, hiked volcanoes, and visited the stunning cathedral posted below, all for a fraction of what I’d pay in Panama or Costa Rica. It you’re up for a lot of beans, rice, and plantains, you can easily live on $15/day. Plus, the “chicken buses” (local transport) are super fun to get around in. I like to see how each bus driver decks out the interior. (Read my full post on Nicaragua here!)

Most exotic: Punta Gallinas, Colombia
Rolling sand dunes meet the Caribbean Sea in this remote, windy location. The northernmost point of South America and very close to Venezuela, Punta Gallinas embodies peace and beauty. It’s only accessible by lancha (speed boat), and that is after driving for hours through a very large dessert. With all the effort required to get here, you’ll have Mother Nature all to yourself, except for the indigenous Wayuu who inhabit the space.

Fun in the sand dunes!

Most off the grid: Bahía Solano, Colombia
Not family vacation friendly, but definitely for the adventurous traveler, Bahía Solano can only be accessed by boat or tiny plane. (Are you sensing a theme here?) I arrived via a 21 hour cargo ship. Yes, a cargo ship. There were insane thunderstorms. The entire town flooded. The bridge connecting us to the airport and port collapsed, and no one got in or out for an entire day. BUT, it was magical. I’ve never been anywhere like it…and there were hardly any tourists there, just how I like it.

I feel a storm a comin’

Most postcard moments: San Blas Islands, Panama
Every day I felt like I was living in a real life screensaver. I have never seen islands so pure, so tiny, so perfect. Most of the 300+ islands are uninhabited, but the “larger ones” are populated by the Kunas. I paid for a tour with San Blas Adventures to see as many spots as possible, sleep on the islands, and meet the locals. You can also sail from Colombia to Panama if that is more your style. Either way, expect fresh seafood and dazzling sunsets on the daily.

We actually went to this teeny, tiny island!

Best food: Mexico
Specifically, Mexico City. From street cart tacos to white tablecloth lunches, there is something for every taste and budget. I am personally still drooling over the seafood tacos at Contramar. For a scene, check out Mercado Roma for a variety of eats and drinks. (Do you recognize this spot from The Bachelor with Ben Higgens?)

Mercado Roma

Tastiest beer: D&D Brewery, Honduras
Honduras is a country that I was afraid to visit. The media really got in my head, and a lot of backpackers were skipping it. I, on the other hand, did not want to skip any country on my route, so I decided to give it a try. After visiting the Copan Ruins, I went inland to Lake Yojoa and stayed at the D&D Brewery. Oh. My. Gosh. It was the first time I had real beer off the tap in months! I had pints. I had flights. I enjoyed the beer while still experiencing the sights. The brewery is run by someone originally from the states, and all the employees were Honduran.

Best dancing: Cali, Colombia
I have never seen better salsa dancers in my life! Everyone is jaw-dropping good. The speed. The passion. Ahhh. I took private lessons at a salsa school, went to small clubs, and even saw the spectacular Delirio show that is put on once a month. If you have a passion for dance, shake your hips over to Cali ASAP, and grab tickets to this show while you’re at it!

Best party: Sunday Funday, San Juan del Sur, Nicaragua
This pool crawl lasts all day and all night. I almost didn’t go because I’m 33, and it sounded like something I would have enjoyed at 23 (maximum). I decided to bite the bullet, and you know what? It was pretty fun! Disfruta and ready more about Sunday Funday here.

Best snorkeling: Belize
While this country wasn’t my favorite (it’s super touristy), I got to swim in caves and experience some of the best snorkeling of my life! The Great Mayan Reef extends from the Yucatan Peninsula in Mexico down to Honduras and is home to all sorts of wildlife. I saw reef sharks, manatees/sea cows, sting rays, eels, sea turtles, and all sorts of fishies! Next time I want to swim with the whale sharks.

Best trek: Quilatoa Loop, Ecuador
The Quilotoa Loop is a trail that weaves through remote Andean villages and finishes with a breathtaking view of the Quilotoa crater lake. Go with a group so you don’t get lost! The trek can be done in 3-5 days, all of it between 9,000 and 13,000 feet, and you won’t run into many people along the way. Bliss.

Best hike (overnight or day trip): Acatengango Volcano, Guatemala
It’s steep. It’s hot. It’s also freeeezing cold (literally) when you camp near the summit. But it’s all worth it to see the neighboring Fuego volcano erupting right in front of you! Have you ever seen lava shoot out of a volcano? EPIC.

Biggest surprise: El Salvador
San Salvador was once considered the most dangerous city in the world, so I was skeptical (ah hem terrified) to visit the capital, let alone the entire country. It turns out that my fear was wayyyy off base. I met the friendliest people and had a great experience all around! I sort of hitchhiked from the border of Honduras to get to the capital, and I ended up becoming good friends with the driver and his wife. They ended up showing me all around their beautiful country for an entire week! Meeting the locals is the best way to get to know a spot (but you don’t have to hitchhike to do it. That was totally unintentional, and I was with 2 strong men.)

Best anthem: “Duele El Corazon” by Enrique Iglesias // Runner up: “Shaky Shaky” by Daddy Yankee
Yes, it’s terrible, but I love love love reggaeton. (Btw, if you love the Justin Beiber remix of “Despacito” then you do too!) I taught myself all the words to Enrique’s hit on a long bus ride in Ecuador, and it has been stuck in my head ever since.

Si te vas, yo tambien me voyyyyyy

Well, there you have it! A roundup of some of my favorite spaces and places from my #wanderingdawn adventures!

What are your favorite spots in Latin America, or elsewhere?

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Real Talk – Life Abroad, Part II

January 27, 2017 by Asia

Today is my 6 month travel anniversary (say what!?) and I’m ready to answer more of your questions! I honestly thought I’d be packing it up by now. I never wanted to give an official end date, but truth be told, I only purchased travel insurance to last me through February. Needless to say, that has been extended, and I’m staying in Central America a while longer. (Still no return flight home in case you’re wondering!)

What do I love the most about traveling? This is a hard one because I love so many things! After a lot of reflecting, I have to say I most love the new experiences that travel brings. I didn’t know much about Ecuador before I went, and while I was there, I got to experience an entirely new culture and start to embrace a new way of life. I took public transportation and tried to live more like the locals and less like the tourists. (Not always, but when I could!) I was fortunate to volunteer with children and rebuild homes. In Colombia, I traveled 21 hours in cargo ship to a remote community inaccessible by roads. I took salsa lessons. I took crazy buses. I went island hopping and saw how the Kuna people live in Panama. I hiked to picturesque waterfalls and had sloth sightings with new friends in Costa Rica. My travel experiences have shaped my heart in ways that I am only just beginning to understand. That’s why I can’t stop now.

What has surprised me the most? Taking a lighthearted approach on this one, I was surprised to learn that sleeping in a hammock is comfortable! It’s definitely more comfy than a mat inside a tent in my opinion. You just have to get the position just right. Why don’t we have more hammocks around in the states? I think I should open a bar on the beach with nothing but hammock seating. Yes. Someone needs to get on that.

What do I miss the least from home? The stress and the drama. (At work. In the media. You name it.) Down here I’ve been a bit more sheltered from all the chaos in the US. What I do see often makes me upset. I want to view more empowering posts (like those from the Women’s March!) and not all these hateful messages targeting one another. Also, I rarely think about Zika, but I’ve heard that just about everyone in the US is freaked out by it! (Please still come visit me! Ok if you’re pregnant, don’t. But if you’re not, don’t be scared!)

I am happy exploring foreign countries, practicing my Spanish, writing, and enjoying the simple things in life. A sunset. The sounds of a howler monkey. A fresh coconut. Don’t get me wrong. I’m not ignorant to what is going on right now, and my friends are keeping me informed. I’m just happy to march and observe it all from a distance…for now.

What do my fellow travelers think of the election? Oof. People are concerned with the uncertainty in the US, but at the end of the day, they usually tell me that the situation is still worse in their respective home countries. It’s all about perspective. (Unless you’re from New Zealand. I’m pretty sure that country is near perfect.)

What have I learned most about the world through my travels? That less is more. Plain and simple. I have seen happier people here living with far less than I ever had back home. Sure, it might be all they know, but there is some bliss in that.

Do I feel safe traveling alone as a female? Most of the time, yes. Many of my scary encounters would have been the same for a male or female traveler. It’s all about common sense. I never take more out with me than I need, and my bags are never abandoned. The exhausting part is that I am constantly “on guard.” I guess that’s something I miss from back home. Being able to walk around without worrying about getting robbed. I currently consider that a luxury. (Perspective!)

What else can I answer for you in my next post??

A Girl’s Guide to Packing Light

January 8, 2017 by Asia

Before I left for South America, I was majorly stressed about how to pack. It’s not often that you leave on a trip with no end date in sight! Would I bring one backpack? Two? What about all my shoes!? After scouring the Internet for advice, I finally found some sensible packing tips that fit my travel style from blogger Indie Traveller. After reading his ebook, I purchased a 46 Liter Osprey backpack that opens flat similar to a suitcase, as well as a small Osprey Daylite pack. These would be the two bags that would carry it all. Why? Because that is all that I wanted to carry!

“Light” is relative and different for everyone. Some may not mind hauling a full 70L bag around for months on end. I consider myself fit, but I’m also petite and want to be as comfortable as possible when traveling from place to place. The first step in packing light is choosing a small piece of luggage – that way, you cannot over pack!

Decisions, decisions

While many of the larger stereotypical backpackers’ backpacks have gone through several innovations, they still hold a lot of weight. For example, if you buy a 70L bag, you will find a way to fill the 70L bag before you go…even if you don’t need all that stuff! (Which you probably don’t.) I spoke to several avid travelers and employees at REI when I was weighing my options and learned that these larger bags were designed for backpackers who are trekking and camping for weeks on end. I’m a hostel gal myself so no tent or pots and pans necessary! I do enjoy sleeping in a hammock or tent on occasion to save money, and there are hostels that provide them for you.

Purchasing a smaller bag also meant I could keep it with me on the plane from LAX to Ecuador. Some backpacks meet the stricter international travel requirements, so be sure to check if this is important to you. After years of traveling, I try to carry on my luggage whenever possible. This is something that my dad and experience taught me. I know not everyone is on board with this approach yet, but consider this: When you carry on, you eliminate the risk of someone else losing your stuff, and it’s much quicker! It also keeps your luggage size and weight in check. For Copa Air, I had to keep mine under 10 kilos/22 pounds and within 46 linear inches (115 cm) length + width + height. I barely made the cut, but I’m glad I had some strict guidelines to help keep my luggage minimal. I’ve already met a handful of travelers whose checked luggage didn’t arrive the same day as they did. How stressful!

Day bags for hiking (13L purple and 24L black Osprey bags)

Now that I’ve been traveling for nearly 6 months, I can confidently say that I am happy with my decision. I even sent a few things home with my parents when they visited me over Christmas! When other travelers see my bag, they often comment on how small it is. Some even assume I’m a “short-term traveler.” Coming from a girlie girl, let me tell you that packing light CAN be done! I’m trying to start a movement here. You just need to focus, keep your eye on the prize (comfort), and go through at least 3 rounds of packing before you arrive at the perfect bag.

All that being said, here are some tips & tricks for keeping it comfy, practical, and minimal no matter the duration:

Start with a realistic sized piece of luggage, which is probably smaller than you think.
Have a second smaller bag and keep it stocked with the essentials: phone, noise canceling headphones, Kindle, medications, water, snacks. This bag will also come in handy for hiking and weekend trips.
Consider your climate. I have 1 all purpose jacket and even though it rains here, decided to forego a rain jacket to save space. You can purchase a disposable poncho if you get caught in a downpour, or just embrace Pachamama!
Stick to one color pallet so you can mix and match clothing more easily. Most of my pieces are earthy tones and blacks. (Don’t bother with white. While this is my favorite color for resort wear, it stains and turns yellow faster than you’d imagine!)
Roll your clothing; it takes up less space.
Take only 1 pair of all purpose tennis shoes for walking, hiking, and even running. (I recommend trail running shoes. Ditch the bulky hiking boots!)
Throw in a pair of Tieks or other versatile flats that can be folded and go from day to night. I use these anytime I’m in a big city like Quito, but they stay tucked away when I’m living the beach life. Bonus: flats take up way less space than a pair of Converse! (Everyone is wearing Converse down here, I swear.)
Get creative. Layer and wear your bulkiest items when moving from place to place. If it’s too hot, I tie my sneakers outside my backpack and stuff my jacket a linen bag to use as a pillow on long bus rides.

Rollin’, rollin’, rollin’

Buy a few reversible clothing items to get more looks out of the same piece (like a dress or swimsuit).
Don’t forget multi-purpose soap! I use this natural magic soap as my body wash and for hand-washing undergarments.
Buy a Hip Sister to keep cash & cards close and safe.
Remember that you can always buy things during your travels (toiletries, shoes, replacement items.) I purchased a warm hat and scarf on the street in Quito for $5 when I knew I’d be hiking at high elevation…subsequently, I ditched them in hot and humid Costa Rica.

Start with travel sized beauty products to comply with the TSA 3-1-1 rule, and refill as you go.
Try a life sans makeup or at least leave most of it at home! I wear mascara approx 1x/month at most, only for special occasions. Besides, I think I look younger this way?
Get solid shampoo and conditioner. It weights less than liquid and lasts so much longer! Also, forego the hair products and try going au natural. Coconut oil is the perfect substitute and also works as a sand fly repellent.

I cut my shampoo & conditioner down slightly so that they would fit together in 1 container to save space

Just remember. Start with a small bag and the rest will fall into place. If you’re interested, I can share my detailed packing list in a future post!

In my city gear here! Jeans, jacket, and flats.

In my cool weather city gear here! Jeans, jacket, and flats.

What have I missed? What tips do you have for minimizing your luggage?

Puerto Viejo – a home away from home

January 5, 2017 by Asia

I cannot leave this town. Puerto Viejo has sucked me in and become my new home away from home.

My parents and Rebeca visited me over Christmas and this was our final spot together…two weeks later, I’m still here. Normally I’m on the move every few days, so this is a big change of pace for me. There’s something about Puerto that has drawn me in and won’t let me go. I feel inspired to read, write, swim, bike, run, yoga, detox, and relax here.

It’s hard to explain what makes this Caribbean town so magical, but I’m going to try. You should know that I am not the first, nor will I be the last, person to get “stuck” here. People tell me it happens all the time.

Jungle meets beach in this tiny coastal town.

The Rasta vibe makes it impossible not to relax and look at life with a new perspective.

Bicycles are the preferred method of transportation.

On the main road you will find beach after beach after beach – each one unique.

Howler monkeys become a wake-up call, jungle birds chirp all day long, and sloths hang out in trees along the street.

There is a strong sense of community and friendships come easy.

Fresh seafood abounds. So do vegan pastries. Food is local and delicious.

Yoga studios and yogis are everywhere. So are surfers, runners, and nature lovers.

There is a major hippy vibe around town.

There are shiny happy people all around!

I remember driving in and thinking that this was MY spot. How could I not fall in love?

Of course like any place, Puerto Viejo isn’t without its challenges. Prices are high relative to the rest of Central America (think $7 breakfast sandwiches and $16 seafood dinners), and locals are having a harder and harder time affording to stay, getting forced out into neighboring towns. Consequently there are robberies towards tourists, so I’m extra cautious about what I take out with me, especially at night. That said, I believe that the “scary parts” of living here are magnified since it is such a small community. I started hearing about robberies the day I landed in Quito so this isn’t unique to Puerto Viejo. I just wish we could all get along.

Since this place is obviously so magical, I’m also choosing to stay here for a while to relax and reflect. I need some “me” time, and it’s hard to do that when I’m constantly on the move or tagging along with other travelers. I’m trying to look inside and think about what I want in this next chapter of life. While it isn’t easy, yoga, meditation, time in the jungle, and surrounding myself with good people have all helped me focus. I’m still on the road to discovery, but each day I have a new finding and it feels really, really good.

The only reasons I haven’t gotten a part-time job or started volunteering down here are a) I thought I was leaving for Panama again (I’m not!) and b) Nicole is visiting me in La Fortuna next week! With this visit, I officially have an end date for my love affair with Puerto Viejo. Will I return? Only time will tell.

What’s your favorite place in the world?

Have you been to Puerto Viejo yet?

Real Talk – Life Abroad

November 17, 2016 by Asia

Melissa and I met in San Diego through a volunteer/travel website before our solo travels, and then we met up for hiking in Ecuador!

Before I left San Diego, a friend suggested that I write a monthly “real talk” post about what life as a backpacker is really like. Is traveling the world really as glamorous as it appears on Instagram? How do I make it all work? What about the learning moments and the tough times? I could also discuss fun things like, how many times per week do I shower/shave/wash my hair/wear makeup? You know, the important things. ; )

Colombia is gorgeous!

I really liked the idea for that post, and now that I’ve been traveling for nearly 4 months (WOW) I think it’s time to start sharing! Read on, and please be sure to submit any questions you have for me so I can include them in a future post!

First of all, am I happy? Yes! I am living a much simpler, less materialistic life than I was back at home, and I feel happier overall. Certainly other factors come into play, like exploring new countries, learning a new language, and experiencing other cultures. I am also living in the moment instead of worrying about what I will do next week or next month, or fretting over the past. Living in the present was one of my intentions for this trip because I don’t think we do it enough.

Acting very serious on a free walking tour in Medellin, Colombia

What’s my daily budget, and how did I arrive at it? I did research before my trip and read that $30-35/day is feasible for budget backpacker travel in Latin America, so I decided I would take the higher end of $35/day and make it work for me. At home I love to spend, so I admit I was a bit worried about sticking to this seemingly low budget. It turns out I developed some great habits from other backpackers at the beginning of my trip, and so far I’ve traveled on an average of just $22/day! I was even told $35/day was HIGH, so I officially adjusted my budget to $30/day…which apparently is still high? Many people I’ve met spend just $15-25/day so I’ve learned a lot from them. At home I would often spend upwards of $20 on 1 meal or on a happy hour with my girlfriends. Now I’m making food, shelter, entertainment, and transportation all work for the same daily price as a salad and Kombucha from Whole Foods back at home. I plan to do a complete post on budgeting later because I’ve learned a lot and want to share!

I love it when I find vegetarian restaurants! Not pictured: juice, soup, and dessert! All for under $3.

Do I have to give anything up to stay on budget? It has been more of an overall lifestyle change. I no longer go shopping, do happy hours, or get my hair cut and colored. I try to think local in terms of food and transport. I get around by taking the cheapest option available which is typically a bus (and sometimes not even receiving a proper seat). I eat at local restaurants or markets which usually means a $2 set menu lunch. I drink local beer and buy local alcohol when it’s time to party. (Aguadiente is drink of choice in Colombia. I’ve even had rum. Who am I??) I book the cheapest room in a hostel (often a coed dorm with bunkbeds) and try to stay at places where breakfast is included. When I stay at a hostel with a kitchen, I cook many of my meals. I still drink coffee regularly since it costs only pennies. I’ve also incorporated several weeks of volunteering which includes free lodging and sometimes even free meals.

I’ve paid anywhere from $0.20 to $2.00 for a cup of jo in Ecuador & Colombia.

What do I miss the most from home? Aside from my friends and family (obviously!), I mostly miss my yoga studios, morning runs with Nicole, the Whole Foods salad bar, and leafy greens. The tropical fruit here is amazinggg (I dare you to find a sweeter pineapple), but leafy greens are not a typical part of the Latin culture. The other day I treated myself to a sit-down restaurant and found a KALE SALAD on the menu!! This was the first time I was able to find kale since the start of my travels, and I gobbled it up. (I will also miss Thanksgiving. Tear.) I’m getting yoga in occasionally when a hostel offers it or through an online studio, but I still miss the community and my teachers back home.

Aerial yoga in Ecuador!

Do I ever get lonely? I’m rarely alone during my travels, so I haven’t felt lonely per se. Occasionally I reminisce about life back home and experience a bit of FOMO. I’m still tied to social media so I get to see what my family and friends are up to. This makes me feel connected, but at times I feel left out or worried that I’m missing important milestones. I started WhatsApp groups with my family and friends, and we share photos and stores with each other. Now that the holiday season is upon us, I am definitely feeling more nostalgic, but I am very fortunate that my parents & Rebeca will be meeting me in Costa Rica for Christmas this year! I can’t wait for my first group of visitors. : )

Reunited with this guy, from Quito to Medellin!

What’s a day in the life like? No two days are ever the same, and that’s what I like about my current lifestyle. At home I had such a structured routine (wake, run, work, yoga, dinner, sleep, repeat) which worked for me, but now I typically decide in the moment or up to one day in advance. I truly love it and think it makes me a kinder, less stressed out person. I’m generally inclined to over plan my days and weeks, so this is a welcomed change for my brain.

Drinks with cowboys at 10am in a small town outside another small town. It couldn’t have been more spontaneous!

Here’s an example of my day in Bogota, Colombia last week: After breakfast, my friend Hannah and I took the bus downtown where we then took a cable car to the top of Monserrate mountain (10,300ft) and got a breathtaking view of Bogota, a city of nearly 10 million people. After soaking it in, we walked to meet up with two new local friends for lunch. (They also hosted us at their house for a week!) We then went to the Bogota Brewing Company to watch the Colombia vs. Chile soccer/futbol game. We got back on the bus during rush hour, and I was basically carried to the door in a sea of crazy Colombians who do not know how to properly board public transportation. We ended the day by going to a local performance featuring folklore dances from Ecuador, Costa Rica, Mexico, and of course, Colombia. We walked home in the pouring rain (it is often ruthless here!) and had a late night snack of rice, veggies, and plantains before heading to bed.

Views from Monserrate

Today I volunteered 4 hours in a garden and did 90 minutes of yoga and meditation because I am staying at a Hare Krishna community. Totally different!

Planting veggies!

Do I wear makeup? Rarely! I care so much less about what I look like now, and this has been freeing. It’s so easy to roll out of bed and throw on some clothes without looking in a full length mirror. You should try it sometime! ; ) I’ve worn makeup for a few nights out and on my birthday, and it felt like I was playing dress-up! I don’t have any heels here though…I borrowed some in Cali, Colombia when I went to a fancy salsa show with some local friends.

No makeup, espresso please, selfie

What do I wear? I rotate the same outfits every week or so, sometimes wearing the same thing 2-3 days in a row. My socks have holes in them, and things are taking a toll, but this is the new normal for me right now and most other backpackers are in the same boat. While I definitely packed outfits that I think are “cute” and “fashionable” for this trip, I don’t worry about the latest trends or having the perfect bikini body. (Do I even need to worry about these things at home? Probably not.)

I was treated to the works for a night out in Cali, Colombia! I borrowed this dress and heels, and was taken to get my hair and makeup done. Thank you, Monica!! xo

I was treated to the works for a salsa show in Cali, Colombia! I borrowed this dress and heels, and was taken to get my hair and makeup done. Thank you, Monica!! xo

How often do I wash my hair? Once a week! I try to schedule it around hot water and good shower pressure. At home I generally washed it 2x/week so this isn’t a huge departure from my normal routine. I didn’t bring any hair products with me either. #hippielife until I’m home again.

How much longer will I travel for? I don’t know and that’s the exciting part! My money is stretching much farther than originally anticipated, and I don’t feel like stopping now…but I’m trying to take it one day at a time. I don’t know how I will feel tomorrow, next week, or in the new year. All I know is that right now I am happy and I will continue to stay abroad, trying to learn something new about myself and other cultures every day.

Are there any other questions you’d like to ask me for my next “real talk” backpacker post? Please let me know by commenting below! xx

Follow the Railroad to San Cipriano

October 27, 2016 by Asia

San Cipriano is one of those places that I accidentally stumbled upon but will never forget. Before entering Colombia, I had never heard of it. Most probably haven’t. With less than 600 inhabitants, all of Afro-Colombian descent, and nestled in the jungle somewhere near Colombia’s Pacific Coast, it’s a bit off the typical tourist track.

The best part about San Cipriano is the unique way that you enter the town. Take a bus from Cali to Córdoba, walk downhill for a bit (and get guided by a local hoping for a small tip), and suddenly stumble upon motorcycles pulling wooden carts over railroad tracks. No trains. Just motorcycles. I cannot make this up.

This unique mode of transportation is half the reason to go. Where else have you ever seen anything like it? Called motobrujas, these carts take you on a ride through the jungle from Córdoba to San Cipriano; there is no road. It costs 5,000CP for a Gringo and supposedly only 3,000CP for a Colombian. (Don’t let them charge you more!) Once aboard, I felt like a kid on a roller coaster but with a way better view. It was so fun, I couldn’t stop smiling!

Once in town, which is essentially one main dirt road, there are several hotels/hostels/restaurants/shacks to choose from, but it’s hard to tell which ones are in service because many appear abandoned. Our moto driver lead us to his friend’s place (or was it his place?) and for some reason, I said, sure. This is fine. I guess I was looking for a local experience? It was a tiny box with a twin mattress for sleeping quarters and the kind of shared bathroom you hope you never need to use. Needless to say I did not shower there. If we had kept on walking, we probably would have found more comfortable accommodations, but still nothing modern and all of them definitely way more costly. We only paid 10,000CP (Colombian Pesos) each ($3.37) for the night, so I was fine with it. This was jungle life!

It started raining after we arrived, the crazy kind of downpour that makes Gringos stay inside, or in our case, under the roof of an open air restaurant. Hannah and I stayed there for hours, enjoying cervezas, snacking, people watching, playing with kids (and getting hustled by them). All I could do was laugh at the situation. I couldn’t put my finger on it, but all I kept thinking was how different this tiny town is. What would it be like to grow up here? A different life indeed.

Eventually, a woman from our hotel/restaurant sold us a bottle of Crema de Arrechón. This mixed bev consists of viche, alcohol made from sugar cane that is unique to the Pacific coastal communities, spices, and milky stuff that kind of makes it taste like eggnog. It even comes with a homemade looking label. Try it if you dare. I asked a guy what was in it, and I think he said: milk, milk powder, and condensed milk…there may have also been another type of milk I have forgotten. Eventually the rain stopped long enough for us to take a walk, so Hannah and I walked around drinking from the bottle and found some arepas for a $1 dinner.

We were invited by some of the locals to go out dancing that night. We could hear the music but couldn’t see anything. Where was there dancing in this tiny town?? We were guided through the darkness off the main road and towards the loud music where we joined a group of college students visiting from Cali I presume. I let the locals lead me in a few salsa numbers (where I also elbowed one of them in the head because I didn’t understand his move; I’m a beginner), and then everyone got on the floor to shake their booties when the popular Reggaeton song “Shaky, Shaky” by Daddy Yankee played. I looooove to dance, and I hope that this memory will be forever ingrained in my mind. I don’t take my iPhone out at night, so I don’t have any photos to document it. I just have the images of the Colombians, Hannah, and me standing in a circle and dancing like we do back at home. (Google “Shaky, Shaky” and have a listen!)

The next day the weather was looking up, so we walked along the path to visit the Cascada del Amor (waterfall) and swim in the river. It turns out a lot of Colombians visit San Cipriano over the weekend, so we got to see how they hang out, party, and picnic with their family and friends. I saw some fancy cakes and wish they invited us to join them! The swim was perfect in the 100% humidity. (Don’t fact check me on that, but it certainly felt like 100%!)

One day and one night is enough time to spend in San Cipriano, so after our walk, Hannah and I packed our bags and said chao to one of the most unique places I’d ever been to. Little did I know that I was going to head somewhere even more unique and off the grid!

What’s one of the most unique places you’ve visited?

Ecuador: Where it all began

October 2, 2016 by Asia

After two months in Ecuador, I find myself in my final moments here. I didn’t know how many weeks or months I would call this country home; I didn’t even know much about Ecuador before I arrived. I didn’t come with a plan. I came to begin my journey by volunteering with kids in Quito, and then I would see where the road would take me. It turns out that there were some pretty great people volunteering at the kid’s camp, and four of us started traveling together to see more of Ecuador.

My new travel buddies Hannah, Heidi, and Ben (all Kiwis!)

The city where it all began

I made new friends and had weekend getaways in Mindo and Baños. I had nights out at ridiculous nightclubs and experienced a real “ladies’ night.” I relaxed in natural hot springs. I did yoga in an open air Shala to views of the Andes. I hiked through villages, met beautiful Indigenous children, and climbed to a crater lake nearly 13,000 feet in the sky. I volunteered with All Hands and built bamboo houses for those affected by the earthquake. I partied in the beach party town on my birthday weekend. I saw boobies. (The blue-footed booby to be precise.) I swam with fish while tortoises and whales swam nearby. I biked down a road full of waterfalls. I made new friendships that will last a lifetime. I lived.

house

manta-window-group

I traveled north. I traveled south. I went inland and back to the coast. I took more buses than possible to count. I slept in dorm rooms, bunk beds, and tents on the beach. I had $2 lunches and ate #allthecarbs. I spoke English. I spoke Spanish. I spoke way too much Spanglish. I met travelers from New Zealand, Australia, Germany, Poland, France, England, Spain, Italy, United States, Canada, Ecuador, Venezuela, Colombia, Argentina, Brazil, and Mauritius…just to name a few. I’ve already had the time of my life, and my travels are just beginning.

Soon I will head north with Hannah on 30 hours of bus rides to begin our stay in Colombia…a country that I’ve heard so much about and cannot wait to experience for myself! I am really beginning to appreciate this slow style of travel and immersion in a country. Two months in one place still doesn’t seem like enough, and I know I will miss this place I’ve called home for the past 9 weeks.

Ecuador, you’ve been so good to me. Thank you for the experiences and for all the memories. Nos vemos. There is still so much of you left to explore.

local-ecuadorian

A Little Town Called Mindo

August 16, 2016 by Asia

Mindo is a beautiful small town located just north of Quito, Ecuador. Nestled in the Andean foothills and surrounded by the Mindo-Nambillo Cloud Forest, it’s the perfect destination for a peaceful getaway. Plus, it’s only a 90 minute $3.10 bus ride from the northern bus terminal in Quito making it quite accessible.

The plaza.

I spent one night in town with four of my new friends from the city. Eager to get away from the hustle and bustle for a bit, we rented a house off the beaten path and brought supplies to make dinner and drinks.

Madeline, Jen, and me playing house.

We started the day walking around the enormous property. There was a river, waterfall, natural pool, and various trails. I felt lucky to have been invited to such a beautiful place! If you don’t have a hookup with the locals, you can stay cheaply for around $10/night in one of the many hostels near the center of town, and there is no shortage of public hiking and waterfalls.

The river on our property.

I immediately got a hippie vibe upon arrival. There were women selling homemade jewelry and families singing in the streets and restaurants for money. Everywhere I looked I saw a sign for a vegetarian restaurant and signs for quinoa this, and quinoa that. Could this be my heaven?

This is Steve, and this was our natural waterfall pool.

After we spent time enjoying nature, we ate and drank at the house before deciding to head into town to check out the “nightlife”. Sadly, this is when I was attacked by a bug…a red ant with very large pincers! When I saw a creature stuck inside my middle toe, I FREAKED OUT. (Don’t ask me why I didn’t wear sneakers.) I started jumping up and down on one foot, yelling “get it off me! get it off me!” I kept pulling on the invader, but it was stuck in between the toe and toenail. I probably looked like such a site to the taxi driver who was not so patiently waiting for us to get inside his pickup truck. Screaming, I straddled my new friend Steve and made him carry me to the truck. He couldn’t pull the ant off my toe either. Finally, Kevin saved the day with his tweezers and pulled the ant sideways out of my bleeding toe. Lovely. Once I was safe from the ants, I laughed hysterically about this for several hours. Mindo has bugs. Many, many bugs. #nature

This is Kevin. Not pictured – his tweezers.

After that debacle, we arrived in town and scoped out a few bars with a mix of locals and tourists. Mindo doesn’t exactly “go off”, but plenty of people are ready to enjoy a cocktail and dance to Latin music. We had a drink, bought yummy late night cake off a street vendor, and enjoyed some tasty thin crust pizza before trying to find a ride back up to our property.

I was pretty set on finding a 4×4 that could take us all the way up to the house, away from the crazy ants. The girls agreed. We’d rather sleep on the streets of Mindo than go through that again! No cabs or trucks to be found, we wandered the streets for nearly an hour trying to find a ride back to our property. (Small town.) A local who worked at one of the bars walked around with us for at least 30 minutes, talking to strangers on the street, telling us which doors to knock on of the unsuspecting sleeping Ecuadorians to see who might have a truck and be willing to drive us back. Yelling into sleeping strangers’ houses in the middle of the night was so foreign to me. These people would actually wake up and have a conversation with you…a stranger, begging for a ride. (Side note: This is also how we bought our vodka in northern Quito at 930am. Keep yelling/pestering/knocking, and eventually someone will open the door.)

We asked the man if he transports cows in this truck, to which he replied “Si. Vacas y gente y todo!”

In the end, we decided to pay a stranger hanging around outside the bar to stand in the back of his truck that normally transports cattle. We knew it wouldn’t make it all the way to the top of the hill, but it would have to do. I didn’t get attacked by ants again, but a large bat did fly into my bedroom and cause me to start shrieking and dive under the covers. Did I mention that Mindo is home to hundreds of species of birds and other wildlife? The animals were just ready to play with me I guess.

Sunday was a bit more low key, with no cocktails and no animal attacks. It mostly consisted of brunch, butterflies, and brownies. Perfect!

The butterfly farm was definitely a highlight. Normally I’d think twice about spending $6 on an activity, but this just felt right. The butterflies were so beautiful! I was like a giddy kid trying to feed them mashed banana on my finger.

On our way out, we grabbed the best chocolate brownie I’ve ever had in my life. Seriously, the best. It’s gooey and perfect. If you ever travel to Mindo, do not miss out on this brownie and head to the restaurant El Quetzal. They also have chocolate tours there and tons of vegetarian food options if you really want a treat. I even took brownie to-go orders for the other volunteers in Quito and brought back several extras! Also, the fresh yuca bread from the street vendors is a must try. Delicious.

pan de yuca

I’ve been to both Mindo and Baños one time each so far, and my initial impression is that Mindo is more laid-back and slightly less touristy than Baños, but both are definitely worth visiting. I hope to return one day!

What is one of your favorite under the radar spots?

My first 72 hours (or so) in Quito

August 2, 2016 by Asia

I made it to South America! My first few days in Quito, I slept, partied, explored, and ate #allthecarbs. I was also verryyy excited to discover that there are no mosquitos here. There is so much to share, but for my initial Quito post, here’s a quick play by play of my first weekend abroad.

Thursday 28/07/2016

11:30: I landed in Quito, breezed through customs (no one asked me for proof of onward travel) and had no problems leaving the airport. In fact, the new airport is quite nice! No one pressured me to use their taxi or car service, which is what I’ve previously been acustomed to in other international airports like Managua and Bangkok. I was the only person in the taxi line and was given the proper going rate taxi price of $25. Yes, I spent the big bucks in order to make it to my friend’s house the quickest, safest way in a new city. I still managed to keep to my $35/day budget, though!

12:30: I arrived at Jen & Jorge’s apartment as a last minute house guest for 3 nights. Jen and I met in the Girls LOVE Travel group on Facebook which has proven to be an amazing resource for me as I navigate solo travel for the first time. I brought them US provisions including Frank’s buffalo sauce and Reese’s peanut butter cups which are impossible to come by in Ecuador. Jen is from NJ and has been teaching English in Quito for 11 months, and Jorge is Ecuadorian, so what better a pair than to show me around the city for the first few days?

14:00: I had lunch at a vegetarian restaurant! Can you believe it?! They have several in Quito, actually. I got all of this for just $3.25. This is a big departure from my $12-15 lunches back home.

16:00: Nap, nap, nap, nap, nap. I nearly slept for 4 hours straight. I think I was worn out from the stress of getting here and then not sleeping much during my red-eye flight. Jen was teaching her night class, and Jorge was busy preparing for a presentation (he’s a law professor) so no one seemed to mind.

20:00: I went out for drinks & a pizza cone with Jen and some of her friends (a combination of English teachers and locals). A pizza cone is this interesting semi-tasty $2.00 carbolicious delicacy in Plaza Foch (the party center of Quito). They even have a vegetarian option. What more can a girl ask for?

Friday 29/07/2016

11:30: I enjoyed a late tigrillo breakfast with the Fulbright English teachers. Tigrillo is an amaaaazing mash of plantains, onions, and peppers severed with fried egg. It’s hearty and delicious. I’m pretty sure all our plates are cleared so you can’t see it here. Also, these are good people.

13:30: I found coffee on the way home and basically forgot where I was because I paid $1.70 for a tiny cup. That is way too much here! I’m finding that good coffee is hard to come by.

15:00: Jen, Jorge, and I took a $0.25 bus (now you can better understand how the $25 taxi compares) to a neighboring town, Cumbaya, for lunch at a friend’s restaurant. I don’t feel comfortable taking my iPhone around with me often (robbery is common here) so I can’t show you the photo of my ridiculousy huge plate of carbs upon carbs upon carbs. The vegetarian option they selected for me included potatoes, plantain, and corn prepared in at least 5 different ways. I also got half of an avocado and was so happy to find that it’s served in abundance in Quito and is quite cheap! Every California girl’s dream.

21:00: Jen, Jorge, and a bunch of Ecuadorian guys and I arrived early for 2 for 1 drinks at Bungalow, the infamous bar and nightclub in Plaza Foch. After enjoying our ridiculously strong cocktails discounted to $1.50 each, we danced until the club closed down.

Saturday 30/07/2016

14:00: After some much needed sleep, we explored Parque Itchimbia and enjoyed a food truck lunch. There was a vegetarian option at nearly every truck which completely blew my mind! The big city is making it fairly easy for me to eat vegetarian so far. The park was full of activities, including free concerts. It was a beautiful day, and I already adore the parks in Quito.

16:00: Next we walked around Parque El Ejido which has local art vendors and is in the Old Centre of Quito. I wish I could buy a painting while I’m here, but I’m traveling too light for that. Everyone who sees my pack comments on how small it is. So far, I am very happy with my decision to minimize although I have to pack and unpack daily. I also tried humitas for the first time. You can get this steamed corn snack sweet (de dulce) or salty (de sal) with a coffee (un cafe). I selected una humita de sal con cafe for $0.75. (Remember how much I paid for a coffee yesterday? Exactly. Also remember how I said I ate all the carbs? Lol. Yesss.)

22:00: I was peer pressured into having my second $2 pizza cone. Don’t judge me. I shook my booty again at Bungalow, this time with another group of friends. They play a mix of Latin and American music at this spot which is quite fun! I also learned that Wednesday is “ladies night” in Quito which means free drinks. I definitely think that fits into my budget while I’m in this city.

Sunday 31/07/2016

13:30: I semi-tried a typical Ecuadorian coastal lunch called “encocado mixto” with fish and chicken at another friend’s house. (Jen and Jorge know a lot of people!) I couldn’t eat much, but was planning to try and eat the fish…until I saw its face. I just couldn’t do it. I took my phone out with me since we took taxis everywhere that day (which is safer than walking), so here’s a photo of the group! The chef and host is to my right.

16:00: Parque Itchimbia take two. I can’t get enough of this place, and I wanted some more pictures. In addition to live music, they also had a DJ playing and hula hoops set out everywhere! Fun for the entire family.

18:00: After a whirlwind weekend, I arrived at my hostel and home for the next 3 weeks while I volunteer as a guide for a local kids’ summer camp. I have ages 5 & 6. Eek! Wish me luck! More to come on the camp, how it feels to speak Spanish again, and volunteering abroad soon. (Less to come on partying and napping.)

As they say in Ecuador, ciao!

Travel hiccups & how to show proof of travel “onward”

July 28, 2016 by Asia

(Skip down 3 paragraphs to get straight to the advice! Or read my story here first.)

I haven’t even touched down in Quito yet, and this trip is already an adventure. A few days ago, I found out my ride from the airport was no longer picking me up, and the place I was supposed to stay beginning Thursday isn’t ready to host me until Sunday…maybe. Cue mini panic attack. Instead of having a major stressed induced meltdown, I reached out to my network and found a place to stay with a new friend for the first few nights. (Thanks, Jennifer! Even though we haven’t met IRL yet, I can already tell you are awesome!) As far as transportation goes, I will find my own ride from the Quito airport ($2 bus, $8 bus, or $25 taxi) and start putting my Spanish to the test upon arrival. Airports are always the most stressful part of a trip for me. I remember in 2009 when my BFF Nicole and I landed in Bangkok at midnight and a stranger offered to share a taxi with us to our hostel. Stranger danger! Haven’t you seen Taken, sir? Now I am extra happy I decided to land in the afternoon during daylight hours since my plans completely fell through. (Now can you begin to understand why there isn’t much of a point to planning in South America? Ha.)

Last night when I arrived to check-in for my flight at LAX, the woman behind the counter pleasantly informed me that she could not let me on this plane. Excuse me? Since I didn’t have proof that I am ever leaving the country (Ecuador has a 90 day maximum stay), they aren’t supposed to let me in! She told me not to worry; I had 45 minutes to book something and show her proof of my plan to exit the country. (And no she could not help me.) So, sweating profusely and trying to book a bus or a plane on my iPhone (with help from Rebeca from home & from the amazing ladies from my Girls LOVE Travel Facebook group) I finally bought something, thinking it was fully refundable and just a “placeholder” ticket. It turns out that wasn’t the case and I just threw away $370 on a one-way ticket from Quito to Bogota before even leaving the country! There goes my $35/day budget…

Normally I would let these things shake me. A lot. Since I know this trip is a lot of exploration and trial and error, I’m instead trying to take these hiccups as lessons. I am trying to worry less, and live more. I said I wanted adventure and cultural immersion. Well, I’m just chalking this up to all part of the Ecuadorian and backpacker experience. I still don’t technically know when and where I’m supposed to be for my volunteer opportunity on Sunday, and if for some reason it falls through, I know I will be OK. I will find something else to do. I’m on my own timeline and making my own decisions after all! Perspective.

Here are some options** if you need to provide proof of when you will exit a country, even if you don’t know when you plan to leave. (I know I am going to need these options time and time again as I hop from country to country without a plan or end date in sight!)

Book a flight on Orbitz and cancel within 24 hours (…just make sure you book a flight that is actually refundable, unlike me! Read the fine print.)
Rent an onward ticket for just $9.99 with FlyOnward! This service books and cancels your airfare for you! I also tried to use this service but unfortunately it took about 1 hour for them to get my ticket to me, so I ended up using the Orbit option in the meantime since I was under a major time crunch. Plan ahead!
Book a cheap bus fare (or train, etc.) and use it…or not.
“Hold” a ticket for free through Copa Airlines; they will send you a confirmation email without asking for any payment information and hold a valid ticket for 48 hours. Just screenshot it or print a copy to show officials.

**Disclaimer: Consider having a valid ticket purchased in advance (refundable, or not) in order to avoid problems at immigration. Every country and each passport has different requirements, so be sure to do your research before getting on that flight!

Final parting thoughts as I embark on my journey:

What the heck am I getting myself into?
This is going to be such an adventure!
Are my 3 tubes of tinted SPF lip balm, 2 Sunbum flavored lip balms, and 2 generic SPF balms excessive? (I’m obsessed with keeping my lips protected and hydrated.)
I can’t believe I got my backpack to weigh under 10 kilos (22lbs) per Copa Airlines carry-on restrictions! Success!

I’m going to miss kale salads and green juice.
Again, what am I getting myself into…
I’m going to miss my friends and family.
I am so excited to meet like-minded travelers!
¿Todavía puedo hablar espanol?

Thank you for listening to my rambling from my layover in the Panama airport. In a few short hours I will be in Quito continuing this adventure!

Sendoff from some of my nearest and dearest

Besos,

Asia Dawn