Travel

Top Hikes in Ometepe, Nicaragua

February 20, 2017 by Asia

Ometepe, Nicaragua is a magical island located in the middle of Lake Nicaragua. There is something very special about this place. Part of its draw is the two stunning volvolcanoes, Concepcion (active) and Maderas (inactive). Even if you can only swing by for a couple of days, definitely get here before hoards of other tourists discover it! (I’ve already been twice in the past 15 months!) The island is a wonderful spot to soak in nature and there are plenty of hikes for all levels. If you can’t do them all, first pick the level of difficulty you’re up for. Be honest with yourself. What is your physical fitness like in this moment? (Not what you’d LIKE it to be.) If you’re short on time, or are just wondering where to start, here is my collection of the top hikes in Ometepe, Nicaragua.

1. Volcan Concepcion (most difficult)

I hiked this beast during my first visit to Ometepe in 2015. It was intense, and while I feel VERY accomplished, I said I’d never do it again. (It nearly broke me!) I went alone with a guide. In hindsight, it probably would have been more enjoyable with a small group because I felt like I was constantly running to keep up with this nimble mountain goat. One of the keys to surviving this hike is to take it slow. We finished the entire hike in 6.5 hours, but some people take up to 10. Clearly my guide was on a mission to keep me out of the sun…or to get home early.

Concepcion is a perfectly shaped volcano standing proud at 5,250 feet/1,600 meters. It. Is. STEEP. There is nothing easy or relaxing about this hike. The panoramic views of Ometepe island and Maderas are stunning if you go on a clear day. I had brilliant views halfway up and was then immersed in clouds where I felt like I was in a Lord of the Rings movie. It was so eerie up there, and I even got to peer over the edge into the crater.

A guide is absolutely required for this hike since tourists have died doing Concepcion without one. It is extremely steep and rocky and has several path options as well.

The essentials: $10-15 US when booking from a hostel like El Hospedaje Central. Depending on which path(s) are taken, the hike takes 6-10 hours and starts from Moyogalpa. Bring lunch, water, sunscreen, a hat, a jacket, more water, and a good attitude. (Maybe even some bad jokes in Spanish?)

2. Maderas Volcano (difficult, but also has an intermediate option at the viewpoint)

This hike couldn’t be more different than Concepcion. It’s far less steep, but challenging because you hike through thick jungle and mud. If you don’t want to get covered in filth or if you’re afraid of falling, please don’t do this hike. I signed up to do it on my most recent visit to Ometepe, but I woke up with stomach problems and had to skip it. My friends went without me and had a great time, but they said it was definitely extreme. (They also came back covered in mud!) There’s a bit of a debate as to which volcano is more difficult; I recommend selecting the one that most fits your hiking style. There is also a view point part way up the volcano if you don’t want to invest your entire day climbing. A guide is also required to hike Maderas.

The essentials: $8 US for a guide from Zopilote hostel; 3 people minimum. The posted hike hours are 7am-3pm but most people are gone longer. You can start near Balgue or Merida. Bring lunch, water, sunscreen, bug spray, swimsuit, hat, a jacket, and more water.

3. San Ramon Waterfall (intermediate)

Half the battle of this hike is getting to the start! San Ramon is located on the more rural part of Ometepe, Nicaragua, and the road to the base of the hike is very rocky and poorly taken care of. I met two backpackers who crashed their scooters on the way up! Our 4×4 vehicle got us mostly to the start, but we did have to hop out and walk a bit. If you choose to get there on your own (bicycle or chicken bus), it’s only a couple of kilometers more to get to the “official” start of the hike, so add more time for that.

The hike is somewhat steep and slippery at points, but it’s definitely doable within one and a half to two hours. The waterfall at the end is 52 meters/170 feet high and picturesque. If you go during dry season, it might not be flowing as powerfully as it does during rainy season when I went, but it’s still a beautiful sight to see. The pool isn’t deep enough to swim in, but you can still wade in and cool off before the trek back down. Bring snacks and relax for a while.

The essentials: $2 US entry payable at the Biological Station. Hike is approximately 2 hours. Located on the south part of the south island near Merida. Bring water, sunscreen, bug spray, and snacks. (I take almonds with me everywhere!)

4. Charco Verde (easy)

I learned about this nature reserve during my second visit to the island when I was staying in Moyogalpa. There is a small butterfly, bird, and orchid pavilion, 3 walking trails, a green lagoon (not for swimming), and a beach with a view of Maderas Volcano. I spent 15 minutes with the butterflies, walked all 3 paths, sat at the beach for a bit, and was done in approximately 2 hours. There is also a resort where you can grab a drink afterwards which I did while waiting for my chicken bus. The hiking trails are easy and short enough where I felt comfortable doing them alone. I saw guides taking groups of Spanish speakers on an informational tour, but a guide is definitely not necessary. If you have an interest in flora and fauna, or if you just want to get away from town for a while, this reserve is worth a visit!

The essentials: $5 US entry. Allocate 2-3 hours at the park. Located 10-12km east of Moyogalpa. 30 minutes / 11 cordoba chicken bus or 1 hour on a bicycle. Bring water!

This island is simply one of my favorite places to explore and connect with nature. I can’t stop gushing about it! I hope you will have the opportunity to enjoy Ometepe, Nicaragua as much as I did! I’m sure I will be back for a third time to climb Maderas one day. #FOMO #goals

Do you enjoy easy hikes or more extreme ones? Are there any others you can recommend in Ometepe, Nicaragua or throughout Central America?

Sunday Funday in San Juan del Sur, Nicaragua

February 14, 2017 by Asia

Oh, Sunday Funday. How I both love and hate you. I recently experienced my first Sunday Funday in San Juan del Sur, Nicaragua and have many thoughts (and tips!) to share on the subject.

If you’re on the backpacker circuit, you will undoubtedly hear of the infamous Sunday Funday the closer you get to Nicaragua. In the US, we also often refer to “Sunday Funday” when we’re having a boozy brunch or day drinking to extend the weekend and forget all about work the next day. I’m sure other countries refer to Sunday Funday commonly as well, but Nicaragua is the first country in Latin America where I’ve seen an official event sooooo close to a day pool party in Vegas that I just had to go. My cousin flew down to visit me and said it’s like everyone is constantly on Spring Break!

I first heard of Sunday Funday at a hostel in Colombia when other backpackers were sharing their epic stories. (We got so drunk! They were basically having sex in the pool next to us! I lost my pants! Etc.) If this sounds like your cup of tea, or if you want to just experience the debauchery for yourself, read on, dear readers. Read on. And if I can handle it / survive the day at the ripe old backpacker age of 33, chances are, so can you.

What exactly is Sunday Funday? It’s a pool and bar crawl in San Juan del Sur, Nicaragua mainly comprised of backpackers from all around the world. Canadians dominate the circuit, followed closely by Australians. I met one group from Chicago, but my cousin and I were basically the odd ones out from the United States. At each stop there are cheap drinks (50-60 cordobas / $2 US each) and DJs playing decent music. Some people go in the pool, usually because they are either thrown in or want some makeout time, but most of us just stayed around the edge, swaying to the beat.

If you’ve ever been to a Sunday day party in Vegas, there are some striking similarities. Pool. Cocktails. Hot chicks. DJs. Debauchery. The biggest difference is that everyone is equal here in Nica. There is no bottle service, no attitude, and no flashing your money to get preferred service.

The Essentials:
You can find the official Sunday Funday Pool Crawl Facebook event here.

Tickets are $30 and go on sale at 10am Sundays at Pachamama Hostel. (They are only $15 if you’re staying at Pachamama.) Your purchase includes a Sunday Funday tank top, transportation between the parties, and a DJ at each event. It does not include alcohol. Not even a drop. While that may seem pricey the average backpacker (aka me!) this is a hard event to skip if you find yourself in San Juan del Sur over the weekend. It’s all anyone talks about.

Photo credit: someecards.com

I recommend arriving at Pachamama sometime between 930-11am to buy your ticket before the official pre-party starts at 12pm. That way you can avoid lines and the chaos. Hundreds of people are in attendance, but I’m not sure it ever sells out. The pre-party is essentially stop #1 and everyone was already hitting it HARD by the time we arrived around 2pm. One guy would only speak to me through hand gestures and then started speaking to me in Hebrew. (I do not speak Hebrew.) I just smiled and continued to grip onto my vodka soda for dear life. I’m so glad I had a cocktail beforehand! (Ironically, we became friends with the same guy the next day and went to a Chabad together. Anything can happen here, people!)

The Schedule:
The schedule changes from week to week, but here is what I experienced in Feb 2017.

10am Tickets on sale at Pachamama
12pm Pre-party at Pachamama (Again, an intense “pre-party!”)
3pm Walk to Hotel Anamar (It’s right on the beach!)
5pm Transportation to Naked Tiger (This hostel located just outside of downtown has the perfect view of sunset.)
8pm Transportation to Arribas (Return downtown for the final stop. There’s no pool here!)

Sooooo how does on survive this day of party, party, party? First, bathe yourself in glitter. And then…

My Top 5 Tips:
1. Bring snacks! There is nothing that will ruin day drinking faster than an empty stomach. I had a breakfast bagel pre-event and brought crackers and Larabars for during. I only wish I had more! The 5pm stop will serve burgers for 150 cordobas if you’re into meat. No other stops were serving food as far as I could tell, so plan accordingly. (You can also go hard on an empty stomach but please do not puke on your friends.)

2. Hydrate! Don’t pass out! Drink vodka sodas and sprinkle in bottled waters at each stop. Drinks are less than $2 each so a bottled water is worth the investment. I heard that you can bring in sealed non-alcoholic beverages at each stop, but I also saw people chugging and dumping water before entering a bar. (They do a full bag search at each stop. Tip 2a: Don’t smuggle drugs.)

3. Buy tickets, then do brunch. There’s no need to be the first one in line to buy your ticket and then wait around for 2 hours for the official pre-party to start. Pachamama gets hot with the crowds and you will have all day to drink. After receiving your wristband and tank, go update your outfit or put your shirt back in your hostel, and then grab a sandwich at El Gato Negro down the street. You’ll thank me later.

4. Wear minimal clothing. It’s so hot in San Juan del Sur! You will be outside exposed to the elements all day, constantly sweating, so wear a bikini, swim trunks, etc. I wore a bikini top and jean shorts. I found the Sunday Funday tank top to be too hot for me since it’s made with a heavy cotton. Some girls wore it as a dress. Others completely ignored this advice and dressed in costume, so that’s another way to go.

5. Pace yourself. There is nothing like starting too hard at 9am (pre-partying before the pre-party so to speak) and then passing out face down at the first bar. I saw that guy. Don’t be that guy. The last event starts at 8pm. If you want to hang with your friends, take it easy and then ramp it up as the day goes on. (Don’t forget tip #2: hydration!)

So there you have it my friends. Everything you need to know about Sunday Funday in Nicaragua. Will I try this event again? I think once was enough for me, but I’m still glad I went to see it for myself! It actually wasn’t quite as crazy as I thought it would be. It was mostly just a bunch of 20-somethings looking to let it all go and have a good time. (And some miming.)

Would you try Sunday Funday?

Why I’m Tired of Traveling (for now)

February 11, 2017 by Asia

Parque Tayrona, Colombia

It’s time to get real. I’ve been on the road for six and a half months. That’s a long time to be without a home, let alone my own room. I started off full of energy and ready to move to a new place at any given moment. No one could stop me! In the last 200 days, I’ve made my way from southern Ecuador to the beaches of Nicaragua. While I’ve traveled “slowly” compared to other backpackers (many will do all of South America in just 6 months!), I’ve still seen A LOT. I’ve been to countless cities in 5 countries. And I am tired. At about 5 months in, I started to crave spending more time in any one place. My travel pace slowed, and I found myself spending 1-3 weeks in spots instead of 3-5 days.

During my time on the road, I’ve had a variety of sleeping situations, some of them comical and nearly all of them shared. I’ve only had my own room once! For some reason that realization is stunning…Perhaps because sharing a common space has become my new normal? I’ve slept in bunk beds, on mattresses, in hammocks, in tents, at new friend’s houses, on tiny islands, in jungles, in cities, on buses, in boats, you name it. Maybe I’ll write an entire post on it one day because oh the stories I could tell! (Confessions of a cargo ship bunker…)

Winner for windiest hammock sleep of my life

I’ve been fortunate to have many visitors since Christmas, and that has had two effects on me. 1. It’s reinvigorating because I get to share my stories with people who really know me, and I get to see how they are doing IRL. 2. It makes me homesick. It feels like so much has changed since I’ve been gone, but in reality, I know that things will be mostly “the same” when I get back to San Diego. Thinking about everything that has unfolded and all that I could be missing out on (my sister’s pregnancy and soon to be new niece, friends’ pregnancies and babies, showers, birthdays, new homes, new loves, new jobs, new illnesses) gives me some pause. I know all of these things will still be there in one form or another when I return, but I still hate to miss important milestones.

Still, I know my time on the road is not done. While I can technically return home tomorrow or next week, I am not ready yet. I am tired, yes. But I know this is just a phase in the grander scheme of things. I am tired of constantly being on the move, so I’ve slowed down quite a bit. I am tired of party hostels, so I’ve slept in tranquil hippy environments. I am tired of answering the same questions over and over again (Where are you from? How long are you traveling for? Where are you going? Where have you been?) So, I am going to make a change.

“One day you will wake up and there won’t be any more time to do the things you’ve always wanted. Do it now.” Paulo Coelho

I am going to stay with a Nicaraguan family for 1 month beginning Feb 14. (Happy V-Day to ME!) It will be my first homestay since Madrid 2004, and I am so excited! In fact, dare I say, I’m invigorated? The program is through La Mariposa language school, a nonprofit with an eco-focus, and it sounds right up my alley. In addition to spending time with my Nicaraguan family, I will have 20 hours of private Spanish lessons per week, and 20 hours of volunteering within the community. (Maybe I’ll work with kids again!?) I’ll be eating traditional Nicaraguan fare grown within the community, and…you may have guessed it…I will have my OWN ROOM! : ) I do not care how basic it is. It will be tiny and beautiful and all mine!

The BEST hammocks are from the Caribbean coast of Colombia

One of the reasons I selected Latin America for my travels was for the hope of becoming fluent (or casi) in Spanish. I would love to use both English and Spanish in a job one day. Spending weeks in backpacker hostels speaking English with others from around the world hasn’t helped my case, so I have to go out of my way to use my Spanish with the locals and with Spanish-speaking travelers. (I’m sure that sounds weird given that I’ve been in Spanish-speaking countries!) I hope to speak very minimal English during my homestay and go full immersion. I’d like to leave with a better understanding of the Nicaraguan culture, a country I am so in love with. (It’s my second time here!)

Ometepe Island, Nicaragua

So, even though I am tired, I am still curious. I want to know what life is really like in Nicaragua. I want to explore north of Nicaragua, an uncharted territory for me. I want to make it to Mexico City and visit my dear friends from grad school. I want to walk across the border from Tijuana to San Diego with a feeling of YES. This part of my journey is complete, and I am fulfilled. I may be tired, but my travels are not over – yet.

What are your thoughts? What do you do when you’re feeling tired of something?

Real Talk – Life Abroad, Part II

January 27, 2017 by Asia

Today is my 6 month travel anniversary (say what!?) and I’m ready to answer more of your questions! I honestly thought I’d be packing it up by now. I never wanted to give an official end date, but truth be told, I only purchased travel insurance to last me through February. Needless to say, that has been extended, and I’m staying in Central America a while longer. (Still no return flight home in case you’re wondering!)

What do I love the most about traveling? This is a hard one because I love so many things! After a lot of reflecting, I have to say I most love the new experiences that travel brings. I didn’t know much about Ecuador before I went, and while I was there, I got to experience an entirely new culture and start to embrace a new way of life. I took public transportation and tried to live more like the locals and less like the tourists. (Not always, but when I could!) I was fortunate to volunteer with children and rebuild homes. In Colombia, I traveled 21 hours in cargo ship to a remote community inaccessible by roads. I took salsa lessons. I took crazy buses. I went island hopping and saw how the Kuna people live in Panama. I hiked to picturesque waterfalls and had sloth sightings with new friends in Costa Rica. My travel experiences have shaped my heart in ways that I am only just beginning to understand. That’s why I can’t stop now.

What has surprised me the most? Taking a lighthearted approach on this one, I was surprised to learn that sleeping in a hammock is comfortable! It’s definitely more comfy than a mat inside a tent in my opinion. You just have to get the position just right. Why don’t we have more hammocks around in the states? I think I should open a bar on the beach with nothing but hammock seating. Yes. Someone needs to get on that.

What do I miss the least from home? The stress and the drama. (At work. In the media. You name it.) Down here I’ve been a bit more sheltered from all the chaos in the US. What I do see often makes me upset. I want to view more empowering posts (like those from the Women’s March!) and not all these hateful messages targeting one another. Also, I rarely think about Zika, but I’ve heard that just about everyone in the US is freaked out by it! (Please still come visit me! Ok if you’re pregnant, don’t. But if you’re not, don’t be scared!)

I am happy exploring foreign countries, practicing my Spanish, writing, and enjoying the simple things in life. A sunset. The sounds of a howler monkey. A fresh coconut. Don’t get me wrong. I’m not ignorant to what is going on right now, and my friends are keeping me informed. I’m just happy to march and observe it all from a distance…for now.

What do my fellow travelers think of the election? Oof. People are concerned with the uncertainty in the US, but at the end of the day, they usually tell me that the situation is still worse in their respective home countries. It’s all about perspective. (Unless you’re from New Zealand. I’m pretty sure that country is near perfect.)

What have I learned most about the world through my travels? That less is more. Plain and simple. I have seen happier people here living with far less than I ever had back home. Sure, it might be all they know, but there is some bliss in that.

Do I feel safe traveling alone as a female? Most of the time, yes. Many of my scary encounters would have been the same for a male or female traveler. It’s all about common sense. I never take more out with me than I need, and my bags are never abandoned. The exhausting part is that I am constantly “on guard.” I guess that’s something I miss from back home. Being able to walk around without worrying about getting robbed. I currently consider that a luxury. (Perspective!)

What else can I answer for you in my next post??

A Girl’s Guide to Packing Light

January 8, 2017 by Asia

Before I left for South America, I was majorly stressed about how to pack. It’s not often that you leave on a trip with no end date in sight! Would I bring one backpack? Two? What about all my shoes!? After scouring the Internet for advice, I finally found some sensible packing tips that fit my travel style from blogger Indie Traveller. After reading his ebook, I purchased a 46 Liter Osprey backpack that opens flat similar to a suitcase, as well as a small Osprey Daylite pack. These would be the two bags that would carry it all. Why? Because that is all that I wanted to carry!

“Light” is relative and different for everyone. Some may not mind hauling a full 70L bag around for months on end. I consider myself fit, but I’m also petite and want to be as comfortable as possible when traveling from place to place. The first step in packing light is choosing a small piece of luggage – that way, you cannot over pack!

Decisions, decisions

While many of the larger stereotypical backpackers’ backpacks have gone through several innovations, they still hold a lot of weight. For example, if you buy a 70L bag, you will find a way to fill the 70L bag before you go…even if you don’t need all that stuff! (Which you probably don’t.) I spoke to several avid travelers and employees at REI when I was weighing my options and learned that these larger bags were designed for backpackers who are trekking and camping for weeks on end. I’m a hostel gal myself so no tent or pots and pans necessary! I do enjoy sleeping in a hammock or tent on occasion to save money, and there are hostels that provide them for you.

Purchasing a smaller bag also meant I could keep it with me on the plane from LAX to Ecuador. Some backpacks meet the stricter international travel requirements, so be sure to check if this is important to you. After years of traveling, I try to carry on my luggage whenever possible. This is something that my dad and experience taught me. I know not everyone is on board with this approach yet, but consider this: When you carry on, you eliminate the risk of someone else losing your stuff, and it’s much quicker! It also keeps your luggage size and weight in check. For Copa Air, I had to keep mine under 10 kilos/22 pounds and within 46 linear inches (115 cm) length + width + height. I barely made the cut, but I’m glad I had some strict guidelines to help keep my luggage minimal. I’ve already met a handful of travelers whose checked luggage didn’t arrive the same day as they did. How stressful!

Day bags for hiking (13L purple and 24L black Osprey bags)

Now that I’ve been traveling for nearly 6 months, I can confidently say that I am happy with my decision. I even sent a few things home with my parents when they visited me over Christmas! When other travelers see my bag, they often comment on how small it is. Some even assume I’m a “short-term traveler.” Coming from a girlie girl, let me tell you that packing light CAN be done! I’m trying to start a movement here. You just need to focus, keep your eye on the prize (comfort), and go through at least 3 rounds of packing before you arrive at the perfect bag.

All that being said, here are some tips & tricks for keeping it comfy, practical, and minimal no matter the duration:

Start with a realistic sized piece of luggage, which is probably smaller than you think.
Have a second smaller bag and keep it stocked with the essentials: phone, noise canceling headphones, Kindle, medications, water, snacks. This bag will also come in handy for hiking and weekend trips.
Consider your climate. I have 1 all purpose jacket and even though it rains here, decided to forego a rain jacket to save space. You can purchase a disposable poncho if you get caught in a downpour, or just embrace Pachamama!
Stick to one color pallet so you can mix and match clothing more easily. Most of my pieces are earthy tones and blacks. (Don’t bother with white. While this is my favorite color for resort wear, it stains and turns yellow faster than you’d imagine!)
Roll your clothing; it takes up less space.
Take only 1 pair of all purpose tennis shoes for walking, hiking, and even running. (I recommend trail running shoes. Ditch the bulky hiking boots!)
Throw in a pair of Tieks or other versatile flats that can be folded and go from day to night. I use these anytime I’m in a big city like Quito, but they stay tucked away when I’m living the beach life. Bonus: flats take up way less space than a pair of Converse! (Everyone is wearing Converse down here, I swear.)
Get creative. Layer and wear your bulkiest items when moving from place to place. If it’s too hot, I tie my sneakers outside my backpack and stuff my jacket a linen bag to use as a pillow on long bus rides.

Rollin’, rollin’, rollin’

Buy a few reversible clothing items to get more looks out of the same piece (like a dress or swimsuit).
Don’t forget multi-purpose soap! I use this natural magic soap as my body wash and for hand-washing undergarments.
Buy a Hip Sister to keep cash & cards close and safe.
Remember that you can always buy things during your travels (toiletries, shoes, replacement items.) I purchased a warm hat and scarf on the street in Quito for $5 when I knew I’d be hiking at high elevation…subsequently, I ditched them in hot and humid Costa Rica.

Start with travel sized beauty products to comply with the TSA 3-1-1 rule, and refill as you go.
Try a life sans makeup or at least leave most of it at home! I wear mascara approx 1x/month at most, only for special occasions. Besides, I think I look younger this way?
Get solid shampoo and conditioner. It weights less than liquid and lasts so much longer! Also, forego the hair products and try going au natural. Coconut oil is the perfect substitute and also works as a sand fly repellent.

I cut my shampoo & conditioner down slightly so that they would fit together in 1 container to save space

Just remember. Start with a small bag and the rest will fall into place. If you’re interested, I can share my detailed packing list in a future post!

In my city gear here! Jeans, jacket, and flats.

In my cool weather city gear here! Jeans, jacket, and flats.

What have I missed? What tips do you have for minimizing your luggage?

Puerto Viejo – a home away from home

January 5, 2017 by Asia

I cannot leave this town. Puerto Viejo has sucked me in and become my new home away from home.

My parents and Rebeca visited me over Christmas and this was our final spot together…two weeks later, I’m still here. Normally I’m on the move every few days, so this is a big change of pace for me. There’s something about Puerto that has drawn me in and won’t let me go. I feel inspired to read, write, swim, bike, run, yoga, detox, and relax here.

It’s hard to explain what makes this Caribbean town so magical, but I’m going to try. You should know that I am not the first, nor will I be the last, person to get “stuck” here. People tell me it happens all the time.

Jungle meets beach in this tiny coastal town.

The Rasta vibe makes it impossible not to relax and look at life with a new perspective.

Bicycles are the preferred method of transportation.

On the main road you will find beach after beach after beach – each one unique.

Howler monkeys become a wake-up call, jungle birds chirp all day long, and sloths hang out in trees along the street.

There is a strong sense of community and friendships come easy.

Fresh seafood abounds. So do vegan pastries. Food is local and delicious.

Yoga studios and yogis are everywhere. So are surfers, runners, and nature lovers.

There is a major hippy vibe around town.

There are shiny happy people all around!

I remember driving in and thinking that this was MY spot. How could I not fall in love?

Of course like any place, Puerto Viejo isn’t without its challenges. Prices are high relative to the rest of Central America (think $7 breakfast sandwiches and $16 seafood dinners), and locals are having a harder and harder time affording to stay, getting forced out into neighboring towns. Consequently there are robberies towards tourists, so I’m extra cautious about what I take out with me, especially at night. That said, I believe that the “scary parts” of living here are magnified since it is such a small community. I started hearing about robberies the day I landed in Quito so this isn’t unique to Puerto Viejo. I just wish we could all get along.

Since this place is obviously so magical, I’m also choosing to stay here for a while to relax and reflect. I need some “me” time, and it’s hard to do that when I’m constantly on the move or tagging along with other travelers. I’m trying to look inside and think about what I want in this next chapter of life. While it isn’t easy, yoga, meditation, time in the jungle, and surrounding myself with good people have all helped me focus. I’m still on the road to discovery, but each day I have a new finding and it feels really, really good.

The only reasons I haven’t gotten a part-time job or started volunteering down here are a) I thought I was leaving for Panama again (I’m not!) and b) Nicole is visiting me in La Fortuna next week! With this visit, I officially have an end date for my love affair with Puerto Viejo. Will I return? Only time will tell.

What’s your favorite place in the world?

Have you been to Puerto Viejo yet?

Thank you, 2016

January 1, 2017 by Asia

#2016bestnine

2016 was a crazy, wonderful, and nerve-wracking year for me. I spent the first half in San Diego in a traditional corporate job and the second half on the road in Latin America, sleeping in bunk beds, hammocks, and tents. While some experiences challenged me or left me heartbroken, I’m still grateful for everything that put me on the path that I’m on today. I’ve gone from obsessive planner to part wandering soul, and who knows what I’ll embrace tomorrow.

Photo credit: @jessicacorsonphotography

As another year wraps up and we all look forward to 2017, there are many things I want to remember and express my gratitude for. It wasn’t the easiest or most conventional year, but it was eye-opening and I’ve never felt more alive. Living each day with the certainty of uncertainty is something that I’ve started to embrace.

2016 was the year of…

Adventure

Service

Support

Beach bonfires and burned pages

Sisterhood and shenanigans

New roommates, new friends, new ‘hoods

Patience

Exploring 4 countries with me, myself, and I (and a backpack!)

Public buses, police cars, metros, speed boats, cargo ships, truck beds, cattle cars, motorcycles, rickshaws

Disconnecting from wifi and finding peace in the jungle

Fierce tropical storms and floods

Catching Caribbean sunrises

Walking everywhere (everywhere)

Vacationships

Global friendships

Hablando en español

Fine Kiwi company

Strange new words like togs and jandals

Playing 26…or 33

Expressing myself

Learning to trust my intuition

Defying expectations

Doing what I want, when I want

Embracing change

Finding courage

Facing fears

Saying goodbye

Photo credit: @jessicacorsonphotography

As I sit here writing this blog post from Puerto Viejo, Costa Rica, I am filled with gratitude. I am grateful for the ability to follow my heart and for the freedom that comes along with it. I cannot even begin to anticipate what 2017 has in store, but as long as I continue to trust in myself, I know that everything will more than work out. We all just want to be happy, right?

Happy New Year to you, wherever you may be in life right now.

Don’t forget to enjoy the journey!

Real Talk – Life Abroad

November 17, 2016 by Asia

Melissa and I met in San Diego through a volunteer/travel website before our solo travels, and then we met up for hiking in Ecuador!

Before I left San Diego, a friend suggested that I write a monthly “real talk” post about what life as a backpacker is really like. Is traveling the world really as glamorous as it appears on Instagram? How do I make it all work? What about the learning moments and the tough times? I could also discuss fun things like, how many times per week do I shower/shave/wash my hair/wear makeup? You know, the important things. ; )

Colombia is gorgeous!

I really liked the idea for that post, and now that I’ve been traveling for nearly 4 months (WOW) I think it’s time to start sharing! Read on, and please be sure to submit any questions you have for me so I can include them in a future post!

First of all, am I happy? Yes! I am living a much simpler, less materialistic life than I was back at home, and I feel happier overall. Certainly other factors come into play, like exploring new countries, learning a new language, and experiencing other cultures. I am also living in the moment instead of worrying about what I will do next week or next month, or fretting over the past. Living in the present was one of my intentions for this trip because I don’t think we do it enough.

Acting very serious on a free walking tour in Medellin, Colombia

What’s my daily budget, and how did I arrive at it? I did research before my trip and read that $30-35/day is feasible for budget backpacker travel in Latin America, so I decided I would take the higher end of $35/day and make it work for me. At home I love to spend, so I admit I was a bit worried about sticking to this seemingly low budget. It turns out I developed some great habits from other backpackers at the beginning of my trip, and so far I’ve traveled on an average of just $22/day! I was even told $35/day was HIGH, so I officially adjusted my budget to $30/day…which apparently is still high? Many people I’ve met spend just $15-25/day so I’ve learned a lot from them. At home I would often spend upwards of $20 on 1 meal or on a happy hour with my girlfriends. Now I’m making food, shelter, entertainment, and transportation all work for the same daily price as a salad and Kombucha from Whole Foods back at home. I plan to do a complete post on budgeting later because I’ve learned a lot and want to share!

I love it when I find vegetarian restaurants! Not pictured: juice, soup, and dessert! All for under $3.

Do I have to give anything up to stay on budget? It has been more of an overall lifestyle change. I no longer go shopping, do happy hours, or get my hair cut and colored. I try to think local in terms of food and transport. I get around by taking the cheapest option available which is typically a bus (and sometimes not even receiving a proper seat). I eat at local restaurants or markets which usually means a $2 set menu lunch. I drink local beer and buy local alcohol when it’s time to party. (Aguadiente is drink of choice in Colombia. I’ve even had rum. Who am I??) I book the cheapest room in a hostel (often a coed dorm with bunkbeds) and try to stay at places where breakfast is included. When I stay at a hostel with a kitchen, I cook many of my meals. I still drink coffee regularly since it costs only pennies. I’ve also incorporated several weeks of volunteering which includes free lodging and sometimes even free meals.

I’ve paid anywhere from $0.20 to $2.00 for a cup of jo in Ecuador & Colombia.

What do I miss the most from home? Aside from my friends and family (obviously!), I mostly miss my yoga studios, morning runs with Nicole, the Whole Foods salad bar, and leafy greens. The tropical fruit here is amazinggg (I dare you to find a sweeter pineapple), but leafy greens are not a typical part of the Latin culture. The other day I treated myself to a sit-down restaurant and found a KALE SALAD on the menu!! This was the first time I was able to find kale since the start of my travels, and I gobbled it up. (I will also miss Thanksgiving. Tear.) I’m getting yoga in occasionally when a hostel offers it or through an online studio, but I still miss the community and my teachers back home.

Aerial yoga in Ecuador!

Do I ever get lonely? I’m rarely alone during my travels, so I haven’t felt lonely per se. Occasionally I reminisce about life back home and experience a bit of FOMO. I’m still tied to social media so I get to see what my family and friends are up to. This makes me feel connected, but at times I feel left out or worried that I’m missing important milestones. I started WhatsApp groups with my family and friends, and we share photos and stores with each other. Now that the holiday season is upon us, I am definitely feeling more nostalgic, but I am very fortunate that my parents & Rebeca will be meeting me in Costa Rica for Christmas this year! I can’t wait for my first group of visitors. : )

Reunited with this guy, from Quito to Medellin!

What’s a day in the life like? No two days are ever the same, and that’s what I like about my current lifestyle. At home I had such a structured routine (wake, run, work, yoga, dinner, sleep, repeat) which worked for me, but now I typically decide in the moment or up to one day in advance. I truly love it and think it makes me a kinder, less stressed out person. I’m generally inclined to over plan my days and weeks, so this is a welcomed change for my brain.

Drinks with cowboys at 10am in a small town outside another small town. It couldn’t have been more spontaneous!

Here’s an example of my day in Bogota, Colombia last week: After breakfast, my friend Hannah and I took the bus downtown where we then took a cable car to the top of Monserrate mountain (10,300ft) and got a breathtaking view of Bogota, a city of nearly 10 million people. After soaking it in, we walked to meet up with two new local friends for lunch. (They also hosted us at their house for a week!) We then went to the Bogota Brewing Company to watch the Colombia vs. Chile soccer/futbol game. We got back on the bus during rush hour, and I was basically carried to the door in a sea of crazy Colombians who do not know how to properly board public transportation. We ended the day by going to a local performance featuring folklore dances from Ecuador, Costa Rica, Mexico, and of course, Colombia. We walked home in the pouring rain (it is often ruthless here!) and had a late night snack of rice, veggies, and plantains before heading to bed.

Views from Monserrate

Today I volunteered 4 hours in a garden and did 90 minutes of yoga and meditation because I am staying at a Hare Krishna community. Totally different!

Planting veggies!

Do I wear makeup? Rarely! I care so much less about what I look like now, and this has been freeing. It’s so easy to roll out of bed and throw on some clothes without looking in a full length mirror. You should try it sometime! ; ) I’ve worn makeup for a few nights out and on my birthday, and it felt like I was playing dress-up! I don’t have any heels here though…I borrowed some in Cali, Colombia when I went to a fancy salsa show with some local friends.

No makeup, espresso please, selfie

What do I wear? I rotate the same outfits every week or so, sometimes wearing the same thing 2-3 days in a row. My socks have holes in them, and things are taking a toll, but this is the new normal for me right now and most other backpackers are in the same boat. While I definitely packed outfits that I think are “cute” and “fashionable” for this trip, I don’t worry about the latest trends or having the perfect bikini body. (Do I even need to worry about these things at home? Probably not.)

I was treated to the works for a night out in Cali, Colombia! I borrowed this dress and heels, and was taken to get my hair and makeup done. Thank you, Monica!! xo

I was treated to the works for a salsa show in Cali, Colombia! I borrowed this dress and heels, and was taken to get my hair and makeup done. Thank you, Monica!! xo

How often do I wash my hair? Once a week! I try to schedule it around hot water and good shower pressure. At home I generally washed it 2x/week so this isn’t a huge departure from my normal routine. I didn’t bring any hair products with me either. #hippielife until I’m home again.

How much longer will I travel for? I don’t know and that’s the exciting part! My money is stretching much farther than originally anticipated, and I don’t feel like stopping now…but I’m trying to take it one day at a time. I don’t know how I will feel tomorrow, next week, or in the new year. All I know is that right now I am happy and I will continue to stay abroad, trying to learn something new about myself and other cultures every day.

Are there any other questions you’d like to ask me for my next “real talk” backpacker post? Please let me know by commenting below! xx

Follow the Railroad to San Cipriano

October 27, 2016 by Asia

San Cipriano is one of those places that I accidentally stumbled upon but will never forget. Before entering Colombia, I had never heard of it. Most probably haven’t. With less than 600 inhabitants, all of Afro-Colombian descent, and nestled in the jungle somewhere near Colombia’s Pacific Coast, it’s a bit off the typical tourist track.

The best part about San Cipriano is the unique way that you enter the town. Take a bus from Cali to Córdoba, walk downhill for a bit (and get guided by a local hoping for a small tip), and suddenly stumble upon motorcycles pulling wooden carts over railroad tracks. No trains. Just motorcycles. I cannot make this up.

This unique mode of transportation is half the reason to go. Where else have you ever seen anything like it? Called motobrujas, these carts take you on a ride through the jungle from Córdoba to San Cipriano; there is no road. It costs 5,000CP for a Gringo and supposedly only 3,000CP for a Colombian. (Don’t let them charge you more!) Once aboard, I felt like a kid on a roller coaster but with a way better view. It was so fun, I couldn’t stop smiling!

Once in town, which is essentially one main dirt road, there are several hotels/hostels/restaurants/shacks to choose from, but it’s hard to tell which ones are in service because many appear abandoned. Our moto driver lead us to his friend’s place (or was it his place?) and for some reason, I said, sure. This is fine. I guess I was looking for a local experience? It was a tiny box with a twin mattress for sleeping quarters and the kind of shared bathroom you hope you never need to use. Needless to say I did not shower there. If we had kept on walking, we probably would have found more comfortable accommodations, but still nothing modern and all of them definitely way more costly. We only paid 10,000CP (Colombian Pesos) each ($3.37) for the night, so I was fine with it. This was jungle life!

It started raining after we arrived, the crazy kind of downpour that makes Gringos stay inside, or in our case, under the roof of an open air restaurant. Hannah and I stayed there for hours, enjoying cervezas, snacking, people watching, playing with kids (and getting hustled by them). All I could do was laugh at the situation. I couldn’t put my finger on it, but all I kept thinking was how different this tiny town is. What would it be like to grow up here? A different life indeed.

Eventually, a woman from our hotel/restaurant sold us a bottle of Crema de Arrechón. This mixed bev consists of viche, alcohol made from sugar cane that is unique to the Pacific coastal communities, spices, and milky stuff that kind of makes it taste like eggnog. It even comes with a homemade looking label. Try it if you dare. I asked a guy what was in it, and I think he said: milk, milk powder, and condensed milk…there may have also been another type of milk I have forgotten. Eventually the rain stopped long enough for us to take a walk, so Hannah and I walked around drinking from the bottle and found some arepas for a $1 dinner.

We were invited by some of the locals to go out dancing that night. We could hear the music but couldn’t see anything. Where was there dancing in this tiny town?? We were guided through the darkness off the main road and towards the loud music where we joined a group of college students visiting from Cali I presume. I let the locals lead me in a few salsa numbers (where I also elbowed one of them in the head because I didn’t understand his move; I’m a beginner), and then everyone got on the floor to shake their booties when the popular Reggaeton song “Shaky, Shaky” by Daddy Yankee played. I looooove to dance, and I hope that this memory will be forever ingrained in my mind. I don’t take my iPhone out at night, so I don’t have any photos to document it. I just have the images of the Colombians, Hannah, and me standing in a circle and dancing like we do back at home. (Google “Shaky, Shaky” and have a listen!)

The next day the weather was looking up, so we walked along the path to visit the Cascada del Amor (waterfall) and swim in the river. It turns out a lot of Colombians visit San Cipriano over the weekend, so we got to see how they hang out, party, and picnic with their family and friends. I saw some fancy cakes and wish they invited us to join them! The swim was perfect in the 100% humidity. (Don’t fact check me on that, but it certainly felt like 100%!)

One day and one night is enough time to spend in San Cipriano, so after our walk, Hannah and I packed our bags and said chao to one of the most unique places I’d ever been to. Little did I know that I was going to head somewhere even more unique and off the grid!

What’s one of the most unique places you’ve visited?

Ecuador: Where it all began

October 2, 2016 by Asia

After two months in Ecuador, I find myself in my final moments here. I didn’t know how many weeks or months I would call this country home; I didn’t even know much about Ecuador before I arrived. I didn’t come with a plan. I came to begin my journey by volunteering with kids in Quito, and then I would see where the road would take me. It turns out that there were some pretty great people volunteering at the kid’s camp, and four of us started traveling together to see more of Ecuador.

My new travel buddies Hannah, Heidi, and Ben (all Kiwis!)

The city where it all began

I made new friends and had weekend getaways in Mindo and Baños. I had nights out at ridiculous nightclubs and experienced a real “ladies’ night.” I relaxed in natural hot springs. I did yoga in an open air Shala to views of the Andes. I hiked through villages, met beautiful Indigenous children, and climbed to a crater lake nearly 13,000 feet in the sky. I volunteered with All Hands and built bamboo houses for those affected by the earthquake. I partied in the beach party town on my birthday weekend. I saw boobies. (The blue-footed booby to be precise.) I swam with fish while tortoises and whales swam nearby. I biked down a road full of waterfalls. I made new friendships that will last a lifetime. I lived.

house

manta-window-group

I traveled north. I traveled south. I went inland and back to the coast. I took more buses than possible to count. I slept in dorm rooms, bunk beds, and tents on the beach. I had $2 lunches and ate #allthecarbs. I spoke English. I spoke Spanish. I spoke way too much Spanglish. I met travelers from New Zealand, Australia, Germany, Poland, France, England, Spain, Italy, United States, Canada, Ecuador, Venezuela, Colombia, Argentina, Brazil, and Mauritius…just to name a few. I’ve already had the time of my life, and my travels are just beginning.

Soon I will head north with Hannah on 30 hours of bus rides to begin our stay in Colombia…a country that I’ve heard so much about and cannot wait to experience for myself! I am really beginning to appreciate this slow style of travel and immersion in a country. Two months in one place still doesn’t seem like enough, and I know I will miss this place I’ve called home for the past 9 weeks.

Ecuador, you’ve been so good to me. Thank you for the experiences and for all the memories. Nos vemos. There is still so much of you left to explore.

local-ecuadorian